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中国最滚烫的“极边第一城”,遍地宝藏!|中国自驾地理原创2023-10-27 11:59·中国自驾地理-这 是 自 驾 地 理 的 第 479 篇 原 创 主 文-二十多年前,三菱重工,计划在一座小城投资20亿建设汽车生产线,这又是世界五百强,又是大笔巨款,按理说应该很难拒绝。不过这天上掉馅饼儿的事,可没那么简单,当地政府正要答应时,对方却提出要求用20亿换回三具遗体。(滇西抗战纪念馆里有三千多顶远征军将士使用过的头盔,摄影@VIP读者·张展)一具是148联队长藏重康美,另外两具是其副官,这三个日本人被双手反绑,以跪地姿势埋葬在国殇墓园里。得知此事后,日本政府曾多次请求领回遗体并撤走陵园里的下跪雕像,却屡屡无果。这次也不意外,得知真实目的后的当地政府,怒火中烧,严词拒绝了这一要求。藏重康美后又话锋一转表示,想要接回藏重康美也不是不可以,但有三个条件。修改教科书里的错误史实,拆除靖国神社,还得公开承认侵华罪行,向中国人民道歉。不用说大家也能想到肯定是没答应,日本政府没想此一举钱财诱惑不成,反被将了一军,最后只得悻悻而归。电视剧《我的团长我的团》剧照这个铁骨铮铮的小城与缅甸接壤,是中国最西南端的城市,是抗日战争时期我国从日军手里收复的第一座城池。是聚焦远征军历史,骗走无数观众眼泪的《我的团长我的团》的原型地,是9168名革命烈士用血泪生命守护住的边陲领土。因凡此种种,我们今天才能继续谈起这座城——云南腾冲。壹、极边第一城很多人知道腾冲,可能是因为一条“胡焕庸线”,一条呈45度角从黑河划向腾冲的人口密度分界线。这条线往西北,地广人稀,是辽阔的草原、高耸的群山,与驰骋骏马的游牧民族。这条线往东南,地狭人密,是秀美的江河、温润的季风,与熙熙攘攘的人间烟火。(瑷珲-腾冲中国人口地理分界线主题公园,刻有中国版图与胡焕庸线的方形墙体,摄影@读者·偶尔路过)腾冲,恰好就位于这条线的端点,但它从来都不是一个默默无闻的地方。大自然的鬼斧神工,造就了它纯粹、滚烫的生命风光,被誉为“最适宜人类居住的地方之一”腾冲经济开发区全景,图源@Veer图库(请横屏观看)300多年前,明代地理学家徐霞客在云南旅行时,被腾冲的壮美所震撼,称赞其为“极边第一城”。百年光阴流转,变的是看风景的人,永远不变的是古老雄伟的连绵山脉。腾冲的美丽,在同一片大地上不断被书写,它的独特之处要从6500万年前说起。腾冲田园风光,图源@Veer图库(请横屏观看)恐龙还没灭绝那会儿,地球上的造山运动那叫一个热火朝天。其中的印度洋板块与亚欧板块发生猛烈碰撞,地壳在挤压下隆起,就有了青藏高原。青藏高原东端,大规模的断裂与褶皱,截断了东西间交通,被称为横断山脉。横断山的西边便是“一山有西季,十里不同天”的高黎贡山。高黎贡山位于中缅边境交界处,制图@《中国自驾地理》而“不起眼”的腾冲,就在高黎贡山与怒江形成的峡谷地带怀中,共同踩在两大板块的边界上。一俯冲二碰撞,就给腾冲撞出了99座火山和88处温泉,成为世界罕见且最典型的火山地热并存区。“好个腾越州,十山九无头”,说的便是腾冲的火山。热海大滚锅,摄影@读者·风和日丽从气候学上讲,中国的每个城市入秋时间都各不相同,有的地方已是卫衣外套,有的地方还在短袖短裤,没办法,谁叫咱地方这么大(小小地凡尔赛一把)。从北纬53度到北纬4度,960万平方公里的土地上,秋天的脚步总是更加青睐北方城市。而位于北纬25度的腾冲,每年都在苦等姗姗来迟的秋。(中国天气入秋进程图,腾冲大部分地区的颜色,仍是代表“夏”的红色,图源@中国天气)“罪魁祸首”便是高黎贡山,连绵起伏的山脉贯穿全境,如一道天然的绿色屏障,守护着腾冲。高大的山体既留住了从印度洋吹来的西南季风,导致暖湿气流退得较迟,又阻挡着西伯利亚高原的冷空气,使寒流不易入侵。因而这里,冬无严寒,夏无酷暑,秋令自然也就来得较慢些。于是诗意般的金黄银杏,要到11月至12月才由绿转黄、漫天飞舞,绽放出几百年的岁月之美,铺满整个社交平台,成为腾冲绝美的秋日油画。贰、悠悠马帮道鲁迅说过:“世上本没有路,走的人多了,也就成了路。”(这真是他说的),腾冲最不缺的就是这样的路。《史记》中记载:“有乘象国,名曰滇越,而蜀贾奸出物者或至焉”(“滇越”即腾冲)从很久以前起,蜀地的商人们私下做买卖,便会来到腾冲,而最最最最早可追溯到两千多年前的汉代。一条被称为中国古西南丝绸之路的通商之路,也叫做“蜀/身yuān毒/道”(“身毒”指印度)。古西南丝绸之路路线简图 ,制图@《中国自驾地理》这条路从成都出发、经腾冲出境,通往缅甸、印度,盘旋在崇山峻岭之间,是腾冲赶马的汉子们用石块铺就,用双脚踏平,一步步走出来的路。鼎盛时期,每天有2万多匹骡马穿行其间。蜀身毒道上的挑夫到了唐朝那会儿,金城公主、文成公主西域和亲,令吐蕃“渐慕华风”,他们带去的茶叶能解肉食之腥、青稞之热,在藏区大受欢迎。但高原不产茶只产良马,抓住商机的茶商,便将大量川滇茶叶销往青藏,再将良马带回。在西藏布达拉宫保存着金城公主观镜壁画这条商道也因“茶马互市、马帮运输”,而被后人称为“茶马古道”。云南三大马帮之一的腾冲马帮,则在这条路上占据了重要地位(三大马帮:鹤庆帮、大理帮和腾冲帮)。(腾冲人根据马帮在行路途中的烹调方式创造出马帮菜,如赶马肉、土锅子、炭烧牛肉、大救驾(炒饵块)等。在位于腾冲绮罗古镇的马帮大院中,仍可见斑驳的石板与使用过的马鞍与茶具。现成为了一家马帮菜餐厅。摄影@读者·龙行天下)又过了几个朝代,朱元璋当了皇帝,平定云南后,为了戍守边关,派遣大批中原将士跨越千里迁往腾冲,驻扎在和顺镇。从中原带来的文化风俗,也越过千山万水,在西南边陲扎了根。(寸氏宗祠。和顺寸、李、尹、刘、贾五姓,是最早随明朝军队到达和顺、开创基业的五姓始祖。摄影@读者·echo)相比起花大半年时间回中原,这些将士们骑马去缅甸,只需两个小时,出国比出省还容易,平时需要什么就去那边交换。后来更多的和顺人到缅甸打拼生活,发家后有的叶落归根,有的留在了缅甸,他们的后代就成为了缅桥,故有“和顺乡的一半在缅甸”之说。疫情期间和顺旅缅侨胞为和顺捐赠抗疫物资,图源@云南省侨联020年缅甸缅北益群中学校友会捐赠抗疫资金,图源@保山资讯两条商路,一个往东南亚一个往青藏,一个运丝绸一个运茶,后期路线不断扩展交叉,马背上驮的货物也越来越多样化。但无论如何,它们都与腾冲有着密不可分的关系,都流淌着不朽的马帮文化。赶路中的马帮两千年来的古道上,一队队负重前行的马帮,翻山越岭、涉水渡江,无惧丛林瘴雨、匪盗横生,开启着如地理大发现般的极致跋涉。清脆的马铃声,久久回荡在高黎贡山的天边。叁、腾冲冲冲冲腾冲这个地方,有种难得的静谧,是个很适合“摆烂”的地方,当你雄赳赳气昂昂,一路自驾来到这里,腾冲会告诉你:“别急,慢慢来。”腾冲景点示意图,制图@《中国自驾地理》“腾冲之地本四季,银杏村头独占秋”,你可以去银杏村,看始种于明朝的古银杏,与秋日阳光下的满地金黄。这里家家户户门前都有银杏树,3000多株银杏在深秋,绽放出“满城尽带黄金甲”的美景。航拍银杏村,图源@图虫创意你可以到高黎贡山,在原始森林里徒步,短暂逃离市井喧闹,听虫鸣鸟叫、拂满面清风,还有潺潺溪水与瀑布飞溅。记得备好外套与驱蚊水,因为你即将面对的是世界上纬度最高的热带雨林。云雾缭绕的高黎贡山,摄影@VIP读者·许冬冬600多年的和顺古镇中,马帮文化和商贸古道带来的开放包容,使这里有着别样的风情。古风盎然的一千多幢深宅大院,晨钟暮鼓的七大宗祠八大寺庙,中国最大的乡村图书馆,漫步在古街上,用青砖白瓦疗愈疲惫的心灵。和顺图书馆,摄影@读者·风和日丽想坐热气球,不用去到土耳其,在腾冲火山地质公园也可以。春天的一场残酷的大火,让半座山的树林化为焦木,狰狞的火山口更显空洞骇人。如果你经过,也可以选择在公路旁停下,静静地眺望这片黑色森林,感受地球浅浅跳动的脉搏。(未发生山火前的地质公园,乘坐热气球从高空俯瞰绿意盎然的火山口,摄影@读者·逸恺)腾冲的火山,带来了两个宝藏,你可以到热海风景区,看随处可见的地热温泉,特别是那97℃的“热海大滚锅”。到堰塞湖北海湿地,看水草丰茂、鲜花绽放,乘坐木船游荡在绿草碧波之中。(北海湿地,“漂浮在水面上的草原”,这里是数千万年来形成的物种基因库,是观鸟爱好者的天堂,摄影@读者·风和日丽)若你还有时间,不妨到“小西藏”东山草场,独享一片青青草原,待到傍晚邂逅绝美晚霞,欣赏完美景。也可再买上些腾冲茶叶,带走专属味道,在回程的路上细细品尝。先前,我们也曾制作了两篇途经腾冲的自驾路书,不妨抽空点开一看。滇西秋冬休闲自驾环线,制图@《中国自驾地理》上图线路如想跟大部队,于11月一起出发,可私信参加哦~G219第三段自驾线路,制图@《中国自驾地理》腾冲,高黎贡山下的人间仙境,一个只有零次和无数次的地方。来源/公号:中国自驾地理想了解更多自驾资讯,欢迎关注公众号:自驾地理,对话框回复“入群”进入自驾交流群。部分地区可能伴有
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9.临(尝颈苍)潭(罢补苍)县(齿颈补苍)治(窜丑颈)力(尝颈)关(骋耻补苍):这(窜丑别)里(尝颈)有(驰辞耻)"小(齿颈补辞)九(闯颈耻)寨(窜丑补颈)”之(窜丑颈)称(颁丑别苍驳),碧(叠颈)水(厂丑耻颈)蓝(尝补苍)天(罢颈补苍),奇(蚕颈)峰(贵别苍驳)异(驰颈)石(厂丑颈),是(厂丑颈)摄(厂丑别)影(驰颈苍驳)爱(础颈)好(贬补辞)者(窜丑别)的(顿别)天(罢颈补苍)堂(罢补苍驳)。
suoyiguanchadongwudexingweibianhua,yekeyiliaojiedaojijiedebianhua。guihangyunque:meinengfeichudashandexiaoniao,weishazengshisibaluheziduixiang?shoufa2023-11-28 09:00·huangshifukaichebetaruhegeiyigeqichepinpaiquming?xinshilimenxihuanyongqiguaidezicizuhehuozhexieyingeng,biruweilai、lixiang、nazuo,xiangliangdanbugouwenya;chuantongcheqimendepianhaogengjiadaqi,biruchangan、jili、qirui、changcheng,wenyadanbugouxiangliang;yeyounazhongsiliubukaode,birubiyadi。danzaishanggeshiji,cheqimenzongshixihuanduidongwujiyuhouwang,biruliebao、yemadengdeng,yaomepaodekuai,yaomechangdexiong。danyouzhemeyijiacheqipianpianfanqidaoerxingzhi,yongyizhongrenxuwuhaidexiaoniaomingmingzijiapinpai,zhejiacheqijiaoguihang,zhegepinpaijiaoyunque。zhegedanshengzaiguizhoudepinpai,suiranjintianmeiduoshaorenjide,danzaidangnian,qixiachexingqueshidashideduiaotuochanshengguoyidingweixie,erzhebingliezhongguoqichesandasanxiaoliangweiqizhongde“liangwei”,shenzhihuanshisibaluzaiguoneiweiyiyigeguanxuanhezuoduixiang,yegenpangqingniandeqingnianlianhuachanshengguoqimiaoguanxi。houlaixiaoshengniji,yeduobanshiyinweizijizuode,nadaodizenmehuishine?dajiahaowoshihuangshifu,jintianzaierloukailiaogebaofang,genzheweiguibin@zuoyuantuoxieyiqi,liaoliaoyunquedegushi。dashanlideyunqueanzhaoguanli,zanhuanshicongyunquebeihoudecheqi:guihangqicheliaoqi。genjuguanwangjieshao,guihangqicheyejiushiguizhouhangtianqiche,qianshenlishuyuzhonghanggongyejituanqixiadeguizhouhangkonggongyejituangongsi,shijianyu1964nian。tingmingzijiuzhidao,guihangqichezhishijituanyewuzhiyi,datouhuanshizaihangkonglingyu,zaodianfeijidaodanhuojianshade。nazenmeturanjiuxiahaizhuanxingliaone?zhiqiandejiemuzhongwomenduocitidaoguo,bashiniandaichujunfangdingdandafusuojian,gedijunduixiashuqiyeduzaizhaochulu,erzaocheshitingqilaizuikaopu,yeshidangshizuixuyaodejineng,hechangan、hafei、changfengyiyang,guihangyeshizheshikaishizaochede。danhebierenbutong,guihangshiconggeibierenzuopeitaoqijia,1980nianchujiuzuoqiliaoqichelingbujian。1987nian,guoneiguaqiliaojiaochefeng,guihangsuidichupianpi,danbuganrenhou,yexianggaojiaoche,danguochengbingbushunli,bishiguojiazhengyangekongzhijiaocheshengchan,bingquedingliaojiaochesandasanxiaobuju,yuanzeshangbuzaipizhunxinxiangmu,haozaidangshijungonghehangtianxitonghuansuanqiangshi,zhengqudaolianggeminge,changanheguihang,heqianmian6geyiqi,zuchengliaosandasanxiaoliangwei,8dajiaocheshengchanjidi。shishishang,dangshijibianguihangneibuduijiaochedetaiduyeyouzhuojidadefenqi,baoshoupairenwei,xiangbiedechangjiayiyanggaomianbaocheshishishuijiudeliao。jijinpaijuedejiranzhuiqiucijijiuguanchedaodi,zhijiegaojiaochezhuandaqianqibumeizai?yexushishidaibeijingyingxiang,yexushibianlunchenggong,zongzhijijinpaiyingliao,dangnianjiuchengliliaoguihangshuangyangfeijizhizaochangqichefenchang,zhuoshoujiaocheyanfa。youliaomingfen,youliaogongchang,jishucongnalai?congtouyanfadangranbukeneng,meinagenengli,zhinengzhaowaiyuan。1989nianqi,guihangkaishiyinjinribenfushizhonggongyejiushisibaludejiaocheshengchanjishu,hezuokaifaliaozuichude“guihang”paiweixingjiaoche。weishimeshisibalu?wogerentuice,dagaiyousangeyuanyin,qiyi,dangshiguihangdehezuoduixiangshifengtian,erfengtianshisibaludedagudong;qier,youyushichangyuanyin,guihangzaojiaochedeshouxuanshiweixingjiaoche,sibaluqiahaoyoudangshiribenzuichangxiaodeweixingjiaochezhiyi:REX,jingyanfengfu;qisan,sibalu1984niangaochuliaoshijieshangdiyitaidianziCVTbiansuxiang,jishulingxian,guihangrenweishuangfangdushijungongbeijing,nengliaodaoyikuaiqu。zhuyi,zheshiguihanghesibaluzhishihezuoyanfa。yexushiguochengbingbushunli,1992nianguihangzhongyuxuanzezhijieyinjindaihaoKF-1dedierdaiREX,binggenjuguoneidedaoluqingkuangjinxingduiyingxiugai,yongshuanggangshuilengfadongji,shengchanchuliaoGHK7060A。lianxiyinianhou,guihangzhijietichuguochanREX。wentishi,dangshideguihangbingbujubeidaguimoshengchanqichedenengli,suoyiconglingjiandaozhengche,chanpinzhiliangdujicha。erqiebufenchanpinhouchuangshanghuantiezhuohouchuangshanghuantiezhuo“zhongguoguizhouhangkonggongyezonggongsianfushizhonggongjishuzhizao”deziyang,tangerhuangzhidediusibaludelian。gengkepadeshi,guihangdesiluyechuliaowenti。benyexiaopiliangshengchanfeijidejingli,yourangguihangdelingdaoxianruliaojingyanzhuyi,budanhushichanpinzhiliangwenti,huanbuxiangyaoxiaoliang。youchuanyanshuodangshiguizhoulingdaokanshenglichuliaozhemegedabaobei,xiangyongxingzhengshouduanfuzhiyixia,zhunbeicaigoulaidangchuzuche。benlaizheshihaoshi,jinengxunsushouhuizijinyounengpukaikoubei,danguihanglingdaodeyisishi,womenneibuyongchehuanbugoufenne,chuzucheyihouzaishuo。qiongzedushanqishen,dayedushanqishen,zhudayigeguao。yimeizhiliangermeizhichi,dao1998nianqianhou,beiguihangjiyuhouwangdeGHK7060maideshizaitaicha,benlaizairibenyazhuoaotuodadeche,zaizhongguoshichangrangchanganguochandeaotuodachengliaogou,zhenggejiaocheyewuyijingkuisunliao7yiduorenminbi,ruguobushiyouhangtianqichechengzhuo,zaojiupochanliao。ersibalufangmiancishiduizhongguoshichanghuanshibuxiangfangqi,quanhengzaisanhuanshijuedinglaoyiba,yihezifangshizaiwayiwazhongguoshichang。1998nian3yue,sibaluyuguihanggongtongtouzi4.5yiyuan,lashanglingwailiangjiaziben,zhengshichengliguihangyunqueqiche,pinpaimingyeshizaizheshizhengshigaichengliaoyunque。yunque,zheshiyizhongzaiquanqiuheguoneiduyoubushaodifangfenbu,weiduguizhoujihumeiyo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那(狈补)时(厂丑颈)他(罢补)主(窜丑耻)演(驰补苍)了(尝颈补辞)一(驰颈)部(叠耻)名(惭颈苍驳)叫(闯颈补辞)《如(搁耻)果(骋耻辞)还(贬耻补苍)有(驰辞耻)明(惭颈苍驳)天(罢颈补苍)》的(顿别)电(顿颈补苍)视(厂丑颈)剧(闯耻),和(贬别)他(罢补)搭(顿补)档(顿补苍驳)的(顿别)就(闯颈耻)是(厂丑颈)蒋(闯颈补苍驳)欣(齿颈苍),那(狈补)时(厂丑颈)候(贬辞耻)蒋(闯颈补苍驳)欣(齿颈苍)已(驰颈)经(闯颈苍驳)是(厂丑颈)小(齿颈补辞)有(驰辞耻)名(惭颈苍驳)气(蚕颈)。
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本文为绿松鼠(滨顿:虫箩产虫颈苍蝉丑颈辫颈苍)原创内容
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