中国最尴尬的城市,为什么是它?|中国自驾地理原创2023-11-30 15:30·中国自驾地理-这 是 自 驾 地 理 的 第 482 篇 原 创 主 文-作为当代年轻人的电子榨菜《甄嬛传》,培养出了一批批对台词倒背如流的“甄学家”。当皇上下令,将甄远道一家流放宁古塔时,嬛嬛声嘶力竭地喊出了那句经典台词“这几年的情爱与时光”“终究是错付了!”截图自《甄嬛传》又惨又苦的宁古塔究竟在哪,翻开地图一看,黑龙江省牡丹江市。于是不少网友一边痛骂大胖橘(皇上),一边恍然发现“这不是我家附近吗。。。”这突如其来的福气真是有人出生在罗马,有人出生在宁古塔。(从紫禁城(北京)到宁古塔(牡丹江市)共1500公里左右。按清代刑律规定,每日只能走50里地(25公里),三千里需两月内走完。犯人被发配到“苦寒无比”的宁古塔,一路上枷锁压身、风餐露宿、生病受饿,能不能活着到达都很难说。数据来源高德地图。)我小时候看古装剧,都以为宁古塔是个塔,Nonono啊,那是个古代地名!而且是中国清代东北边疆的重镇,清朝廷设立了昂邦章京(将军)在此驻守。后来宁古塔将军还移驻到了吉林去,噢是吉林的吉林。(发遣是流放之上,死刑之下的刑法。清朝五刑:笞(以竹、木板责打)、杖(以大竹板或大荆条拷打)、徒(剥夺罪犯一定期限自由并强制服劳役)、流(流放)、死。图源@CCTV纪录片《流放宁古塔》)我可不是在绕口令,真有个吉林市!还是曾经的吉林省省会,却远不如长春出名。于是常有这样的对话发生“你是哪里人?”“吉林的。”“吉林哪里?”“就是吉林啊!”这个全国唯一一个省市同名的城市,为何跌下省会宝座,今天我们就来唠一唠它的前世今生。壹、“吉”星高照吉林,地处长白山区与松嫩平原(松花江-嫩江)的过渡地带,地势东南高、西北低,“四面青山三面水”。左青龙—龙潭山,右白虎—小白山,前朱雀—朱雀山,后玄武—玄天岭。吉林山川地理图,制图@《中国自驾地理》境内水系发达,呈倒S形的松花江穿境而过,促使了三座拦江大坝的建成,其中的丰满水电站,被称为“中国水电之母”,风水那叫一个好咧。丰满水电站始建于1937年,是我国第一座大型水电站,号称当时亚洲第一水电工程。2012年重建,2019年完成投入运行。图源@《中国电力报》所以不难想象,这里在很久之前,就已经是个物产丰饶的宝地,否则“老祖宗们”也不会选择在此安家。寿山仙人洞,便是在吉林发现的一处距今16万年的古人类居住遗址。在寿山仙人洞中发现的动物化石,证明生活在这里的古人类已具备足够的力量征服野生动物,满足生存需要。图源@纪录片《吉林访古》据史料记载,“寿山”这名字还是乾隆那皇帝老儿给起的。当时东巡吉林城,恰逢万寿节(乾隆过生日),一开心就赐了山名“扎拉芬阿林”(满语,寿山)。这样看起来,吉林也无愧夺得东北最古老城市的头衔,东北文明时代的第一缕曙光也在此地诞生。(1922年的吉林老城)西汉初年,中国东北地区的第一个少数民族政权部落国家扶余国,把其王城建在了吉林。直到东晋永和年间,“为百济所侵,部落衰散”才结束了以龙潭山下为都的历史,西徙到“近燕”之地(今辽源市龙首山)。从公元前200年到公元494年,强盛之时的扶余国疆域达到长城以北,历时七百多年,最后被女真先人靺鞨族所灭。明代中叶,海西女真势力在吉林逐渐崛起(海西即松花江),其中的乌拉部不断吞并了周围的女真各部。又与建州女真首领努尔哈赤相互争斗(女真三大部:建州、海西、野人)。(清太祖爱新觉罗·努尔哈赤)斗到了万历四十一年(1613年),努尔哈赤灭了乌拉,三年后就建立了清朝,至此开启中国历史上的最后一个封建王朝。因此吉林也被清朝视为满族发祥地之一,誉为“龙兴之地”,康熙也曾盛赞吉林“四山屏立,江城如画”(电影《末代皇帝》讲述了清朝末代皇帝溥仪横跨半生的经历。图为电影中太和殿外2500名臣子集体向皇帝跪拜。)为更好地管理东北地区,1653年顺治皇帝设立了开头我们所说的宁古塔“昂邦章京”,后来为抗击北方沙俄侵略,派遣军队到吉林建厂造船。1673年,宁古塔将军安珠瑚在松花江畔建立城池,命名为吉林乌拉城,吉林谓“沿”、乌拉谓“江”,“沿江的城池”便是吉林。(17世纪末,宁古塔地区开始繁华起来)宁古塔将军也移驻到此,更名为吉林将军,此时距离吉林设省还有整整150年。贰、喜“吉”而泣如此有资历的吉林,却在1954年被长春赶超,跌下了省会宝座。改变二者命运的正是象征侵略与屈辱的那条中国东省部铁路,简称中东铁路(不是那个石油中东哈)。(1898年中东铁路开工仪式)1895年,清朝在甲午战争中战败,为了偿付对日本的巨额赔款,清政府不得不向西方列强大量贷款。沙俄便以此为契机,获得了在中国东北修铁路的垄断权和经营权。(沙俄殖民队伍)1898年,这条沙俄为了掠夺中国、称霸远东地区而修建的“丁”字型铁路正式开工。西起满洲里(内蒙古)、东至海参崴(俄罗斯),长春便在中东铁路的南北支线上(也叫南满铁路)。当时的吉林是吉林省第一大城,俄国人不选它反而选了长春,成也萧何败萧何,吉林这处风水地形也恰恰成为其发展的阻碍。中东铁路线路示意图,制图@《中国自驾地理》中东铁路全长2500多公里,俄国人必定会尽可能地减少成本,选择更容易通车的地方。再来看看吉林四面环山三面水,在此修铁路,势必要破山穿河钻隧道,拐上一个个弯。金钱与时间成本将极大地增加,俄国人才不傻,果断将站点移到了吉林以西100多公里处的长春。(再次放出这张吉林山川地理图,制图@《中国自驾地理》)对比之下的长春,位于吉林省东北平原的腹地,那叫个一马平川,施工难度远低于吉林,是通铁路的不二之选。尤其到1910年,更是修建了南满铁路的支线长吉铁路(长春—吉林),长春摇身一变,成为了吉林省的交通中心。(1936年的长春)1905年,日俄战争结束后,长春被开发为商埠地,日本获得了长春以南的中东铁路支线路权。霸占中国东北三省后,又在长春设立了傀儡伪政权,伪满洲国的首都新京。(长春伪满洲国皇宫,摄影@VIP读者·老飛侠)不得不说,日本人对长春的城市建设还是下足了功夫的,让长春成为亚洲近代唯一一个比东京还要先进的城市。获得了多项亚洲第一,第一个全面普及抽水马桶、管道煤气、第一个规划地铁、最大的无线电台……伪满洲国一度成为当时亚洲乃至世界上经济成长最快的经济体之一。(东北沦陷时期的南广场,日本人以此为中心开辟长春商埠)这么看来,长春取代吉林成为新省会倒也有理有据了,只不过偶尔会感慨一句时代变化之迅猛。毕竟在铁路出现以前,位于松花江畔的吉林航运发达是整个东北的中心枢纽。战争时期若没有四面环山、易守难攻的吉林城,恐怕清政府会丢失更多的领土。吉林 松花江源 1991,摄影@徐力群当辉煌与苦难已成为过往,现在的吉林也不容许我们小看。虽然没长春那么“卷”,好歹是个北国江城,宝贝也不少呢!叁、“吉”时行乐“欲问天堂在何处,不在苏杭在东北。”被张学良称为“天堂”的吉林吉林还真和神秘的“天堂”有些关系,当然这里的天堂指的是我们头上的外太空。松花江晚霞,摄影@VIP读者·津津1976年,世界上最大的一场石陨石雨,降临在吉林500多平方公里的大地上,其中的“吉林一号”重达1770公斤,是目前世界已知的最大单块石陨石。或许真的有福星在默默保佑着吉林,如此大规模的陨石雨,并没有造成任何生命伤害。这份诞生于46亿年前的“礼物”吸引了大量星友,到此打卡陨石博物馆,架起帐篷露营,拍摄星空、记录星轨,探寻那片未知的宇宙。吉林雪乡,摄影@宗刚(请横屏观看)另一个“天堂”奇观,吉林雾凇当之无愧,雾凇不是雪也不是冰,而是一种霜,吉林的雾凇凑近看像奶白色的糖雪球。雾凇的形成,需要满足两个条件,一是水汽充足二是气温低,但东北地区的冬天大部分都是极其干燥的。航拍吉林雾凇大道,摄影@宗刚(请横屏观看)吉林雾凇则得益于松花江上游的丰满大坝,发电后的江水温度能升至零上4度。一开闸冷热相遇,江面上腾起的雾气遇冷凝结,就在树枝上形成雾凇,当地人管这叫“树挂”,非常形象。吉林雾凇,摄影@宗刚(请横屏观看)每年的12月下旬至次年2月底,你可以到雾凇岛,也可以去吉丰东路阿什附近或者松江中路,甚至坐在街边吃个饭都能看雾凇。但一定要早,天色刚亮的七八点最好,才能欣赏到那“玉树琼花满目春”。吉林雾凇,摄影@宗刚看完雾凇,若对滑雪感兴趣,也可以到北大湖滑雪场,体验一番滑雪的乐趣。还可乘坐缆车上下行,放眼望去,吉林会用雪落青山告诉你什么是真正的冬天。(北大湖滑雪场,摄影@宗刚)而在城市的边缘还隐藏着一座浪漫的车站,由林徽因设计、梁思成审定的吉林西站建成于1928年,是二人爱情的见证,是这个城市中最具文艺气质的地方。西站站房是一座大型哥特式屋顶建筑,极具古典主义风格,刘德华主演的经典作品《天若有情》也曾在此取景。(吉林西站,图源@吉林市行)若仍意犹未尽,也可以爬爬松花江东岸的龙潭山,千百年来它如一条写意的巨龙,盘踞在中国的东北。龙潭山之巅有一座古城可将吉林城全景尽收眼中。(龙潭山上的乾隆皇帝登祭碑)最后别忘了吃一碗地道的煎粉,这种只有路边小店才有的小吃,四四方方、外酥里嫩,淋上一勺滚烫的汤汁,在寒冬里给予你热腾腾的味觉享受。以后想到冬天,想到吉林,可别忘了吉林还有个吉林啦。(吉林煎粉)先前,我们也曾制作了一篇途经吉林的自驾路书,不妨抽空点开一看。东北赏冬自驾环线,制图@《中国自驾地理》吉林,一座历经跌宕起伏后心怀温柔的北国江城。来源/公号:中国自驾地理想了解更多自驾资讯,欢迎关注公众号:自驾地理,对话框回复“入群”进入自驾交流群。
2024年12月09日,小编寄语:
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首(Shou)发(Fa)2024-07-08 23:41·饭(Fan)后(Hou)聊(Liao)汽(Qi)车(Che)
10nianqianmaishenhuanpingguoshoujidexiaohuo,rujinwujishangcan,huopei147wanyuanrenminbiyuanchuang2021-11-17 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